Change up to 17 image values with on clik – the comfortable default settings in Lightroom makes it possible. Lets see how the 1 click default settings works and how to set up your own 1-click-default-settings.
Step 1 – Appliance
Very Important to work with Lightroom are the guidelines of developing for complex corrections of contrast. It depends the guidelines in Lightroom how many values will be adjust (f.e. contrast, chroma and exposure) but also focusing, perspective default or decreasing of noise.
Change just in the developing mode, open on the left the control panel >>default<< and use section like >>general defaults<<, >>effect defaults<< or >>color defaults<<. Click on a default like middle contrast level, rounded edges or cross developing – your picture is changing already.
All of your interventions are without any loss. You can optimize the result with the regulator on the right side.
Tip: The default >>zero value<< will rest your picture.
Step 2 – Preview
You can test a default before the final use. You just have to open the >>navigator<< on up to the left in the window. This control panel shows you the full image.
Now you are going to open divers default options for example color and effect. Well you hold the cursor over a default like >>old image<< you already see the effect in the preview. You can see what individual defaults can achieve you on the chosen picture, for example for the many black-and-white versions in the folder >>black and white<<.
Tip #6 – Take the time you need, travel slowly
I have this problem while I’m traveling all the time – time flies. To have more time plan enough time into your trips. It give you time to stay longer at places and sometimes you need time to stay at some places longer or it gives you time to revisit a place at different times of the day.
The automatic film speed control can be very comfortable but is not always optimal. If the available light is low, the camera rise the film speed automatic up or you take a higher film speed if you notice that you make blurred images. Below to points of quality isn’t the automatic film speed set up the right choice.
The pictures will be coarse alike a photographic film with high film speed, the higher film speed at digital cameras will lead to higher shares in dark currents on the total signal that caused a disruptive noise in the images. You especially see this result of high film speed on monochrome spaces I nthe image. The physical basic noise will be increased according to the electronic boost of the usable signal. You will not recognize this phenomenon while using a DSLR as strong as while using a compact digital camera.
Use the natural (available) light to get a shorter shutter speed. One of the main reasons to choose a higher film speed for photographers will be to transport the vibe. Doubled film spend means half shutter speed, quad film speed means just a four times shorter shutter speed – just if the program automatic do not chance the diaphragm. The program automatic opens the diaphragm as wide as possible at bad lighting conditions is the dangerous of overexposed images very low. If you are going to set up the film speed at daylight, in begin you should set up the value of the diaphragm. Which exposure time is still possible, without making visible images blurred is controlled by the focal length and the distance to the motive. If you are not sure which ISO-value and shutter speed you have to set up you can use the rule of thumb >>longest shutter speed = 1/focal length<<.
While using a focal length of 85mm on a DSLR, is it recommended because of the effective focal length extension (Factor 1.5 to 2) to take better 1/125s than 1/60s. If your lenses have stabilization you can use this to extend the time of the shutter speed.
The automatic setting >>high ISO/high film speed<< in new compact cameras will sold as image stabilization many times. The smaller exposure time, which shelter to in-motion unsharpness is used by the fact of high film speed. If you don’t want the stylistic device of in-motion unsharpness you just can get some support of a shorter shutter speed. The optical image stabilization isn’t useful in this case. If you are using a DSLR you can’t use an automatic film speed based on the distance and the speed of the motive. In this case you have to set up the film speed by yourself.
Tip #5 – Take time, travel slowly
Sometimes it can be very helpful to be flexible. On my trips I have a strictly plan what I want to see – well it’s not really working. I meet people they will show you interesting places or invite me at their homes and introduce their families and that are what counts on a photography-travel-journey! I don’t like all of these touristic tracks. I enjoy the life of the place I am. And if it’s a small flat with 8 people living there and having dinner with them; fine than show me. I will capture it on my camera and think about these impressions my whole life.
If you have a DSLR you may asked yourself, >Save image files in RAW or JPEG? <
If your camera saves a RAW-file, is this file almost unedited. The information from the sensor will not be edited and just have a few corrections these files aren’t really good-looking for someone. If you want to make it good-looking for others you have to do some steps (I’m going to explain it soon) to convert a raw image into a finished image. If you can handle these steps of editing and correction you should use RAW-files they offers you more freedom of photography.
I think this kind of a lens makes you addicted to it. I know many other photographers who own a lens baby and they didn’t wanted to change it. They take all kind of pictures with it started with a dinner party to the point of a space shuttle start because this lens (you just focus and adjust with your fingers) makes addicted.
Lens baby make sure that a small part of the picture will be keen and in focus, while the rest part of the picture will be out of focus. This will produce energetic and interesting pictures. The look of the pictures is just one thing – i think that really great one about babylenses are that you have to adjust the lens by yourself, like you draw the scene instead of just taking a picture.
This is a very creative lens, you can do you much with it. By the way do I told you that I love this lens?
I take this lens to take photographs…
which are really creative.
Tip #4 – Know your equipment
It could be the introducing of the previous paragraph, many people don’t know what they are using. I still have a current example; Me sitting at a café in Amsterdam at channel side, there were a young couple he doesn’t know his camera and couldn’t work with his lens which was wrong for this picture of his girlfriend. But this is just one example for people who use the wrong equipment for the scene they want to shoot. Know your equipment as well as your camera and know when you can use which lens, flash etc.
Generate with Lightroom virtual copies of your pictures to experiment with different sizes, effects and image corrections. You don’t need more than just disk space for a picture.
Step 1 – virtual copy
See your pictures in the library mode or developing mode in Lightroom. Click with the right-click on a miniature and then on “create virtual copy”. Already you create a virtual copy – does it many times you need it. According to your settings and size of miniature you will see batch numbers to alternately see the original and the copy. The virtual copies also have edge sign at the lower left.
Tip: You do not see the numbers and the edge sign? Change the view settings of the grid display through pressing J once or more times. The display at the film you can change after a right-click on the gray surrounding of a miniature, maybe you have to size the miniature up.
Step 2 – image editing
Edit your virtual copy like master images in the developing mode. Experiment with contrast or black and white versions or cut aspect ratio for photobooks and keynotes. Whatever you want – TRY IT! DO IT! The virtual copies don’t need a lot of disk space – that is almost nothing!
Tip: extra fast copies you can produce with CMD + T (Windows: Strg + T).
Step 3 – overview
You want to compare virtual copies? Just mark the copies with pressed CMD-button (Windows: Strg), choose library mode >>View, Overview<<. Therewith you see the pictures like on a picture table. With the shift key and tab you hide the control panels. To remove individual varieties from the overview just press the small X on the lower right in the image. With the G-button you will return to the typical grid view.
Tip: Be careful! In the overview you can click on remove button or reset button than you delete the main picture (Master image) and not just a copy. Copies you should delete in the filmstrip or grid view.
Step 4 – protocol
If you want to display all steps of image editing (Inside the developing mode) you just have to open the protocol control panel. There you can cancel all steps of image editing. Lightroom offers you a permanent canceling even if you didn’t used Lightroom for a long time.
Tip: Shall your copy looks like the original? Just click-right on the miniature and click on “reset developing settings”. If step you can cancel in the protocol control panel.
- Adobe Photoshop Elements 13
- Use default settings in Lightrrom
Tilt-shift lenses are really special. It sounds like they have some disability. No not really but this kind of lenses are primary intended to take pictures of architecture, because parts of the lens group can be pan this prohibit that buildings in picture leveling will be distorted bottom-up. Authentic architecture photographers confirm on tilt- and shift lenses oath. Most of them wouldn’t like to take photos without it. These lenses are like all special lenses expensive, a good tilt-shift lens starts at $1,900 (1.700 €).
I don’t use tilt-shift-lenses because I don’t need that kind of itemization of architecture.
Tip #3 – Know your camera
It seems to be stupid, but I can’t tell you how many times I saw people trying to adjust their camera and missed a shoot or still not really better they took the auto mode because they couldn’t adjust the right ISO, shutter etc. Sometimes I think people are buying their DSLR an hour before they take off. Maybe if you have a small compact camera you can get adjust by testing it, but for a DSLR you need time to know where is which function. How you have to change ISO etc.
If you buy a DSLR you may need time, don’t buy it a few moments before you go on your trip. You should know your camera as well as the pocket of your pant.